Thursday, October 15, 2009

#884 Suggestions for improving Air New Zealand Fashion Week


Image /WWTDD

1. Change the date. Holding the event at the same time as London Fashion Week and then Milan Fashion Week means that we'll never get top media or buyers coming down here to see what NZ designers do. If New Zealand Fashion Week was held a few weeks before or after the NY/London/Milan/Paris circuit we might have some chance (small as it may be) of attracting influential editors or buyers.

2. Consolidate. Make ANZFW a three day event with non stop shows rather than a four day event with sometimes two or three hour gaps between shows. Get rid of the filler designers and hone it down so that we only have the cream of the crop of established designers or up and coming talent. No international media wants to have to sit through a 25 minute show targeted at middle aged women from the provinces.

3. Fly over one key VIP guest who has the influence to put ANZFW on the map. And not on the gossip blog map a la Pamela Anderson, but on the fashion map. Someone like Scott Schuman could be brought down and all he'd have to do is take a couple of pictures and they'd instantly go out to his 100,000 plus fashion obsessed readers per day. We need fashion people, not obscure international celebrities. Rumi Neely was a smart choice - she has a giant, fashion-specific audience. But Pamela Anderson? Really??

4. Get off the loudspeaker. It's all very good and well to tell people that they can move seats to the row in front, but telling them not to steal goodie bags or that the Moet bar is open (or the meat raffle has just been won) lowers the tone of the entire event. It's not a primary school fair, it's fashion week.

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26 comments:

Richard Kavanagh said...

All good and relevant comments. I'd like to add my two cents worth if i may:

1, Have one backstage entrance with a security person with a list letting people in and giving them their passes for the show they are working on

2, Ms and Mrs Stewart go to the Singapore fashion festival and see what an amazing job they do of creating a thriving industry event in the centre of the city in a single purpose built tent.

3, Have it at Aotea square

4, Make backstage accessible for media and invite/coerce the beauty editors backstage to extend the PR opportunities for the designers.

I agree with you Isaac about shifting the date, and about having one major fashion relevant guest. It is a local trade event which could potentially boost NZ's export trade as well as our tourism. Let's keep it fashion focused and relevant.

Kavanagh

Tamsin said...

Hi Isaac

Great post and great suggestions too Richard.

I fully agree about moving the date. We'll never attract the right people if there's places there'd rather be.

Backstage was ok for me, but tricky to navigate at times and a total mind game to figure out how to get passes to it in the first place. Most of my interest is what happens backstage.

Agreed - make it shorter. Short, sharp and succinct.

And please no more gimmicky VIPs... what a constant list it has been... Alexa Chung, Scott Schuman, Joe Zee... so many more worthy people to bring over (but of course they'd never come while they'd rather be in London).

Invite more Aussie designers, make it really worth their (media and buyers) while to come downunder.

Isaac Likes said...

I'd love to see a lot more designers showing off site. It brings a much more interesting feel to the whole event and no two shows are the same!

Anonymous said...

Get fashion week organisers to focus on the clients rather than themselves. Many designers do not come back as they are not looked after. Ditto the 'service' to the media was an absolute joke and virtually non-existant except to about 10 people and their entourage. I was extremely unimpressed.

Anonymous said...

All of the above...

Anonymous said...

Intelligent thoughts; and love the photo of Pammies Mammies.

Forstesque St Emilion

Anonymous said...

2. The reason they can't swap the date is because of Zambesi and Nom.d sister's buying/selling trip to Japan/paris fashion week. (yes, all the other designers have to suffer for them because they are NZFW's tool to bring upmarket buyers).

3. Ms and Mrs Stewart need to let Fashion week go and a big organizing company to do this job. ie. IMG ( i know they don't want small fw like NZFW but just as an example). Ms and Mrs Stewart have too much personal issue with designers/media etc. NZFW needs some other organisors who's more consistent and who's not willing to give free shows to their fav like A.Hailwood or others etc. and be more solid on matters.

4. If you want a strong FW. Make a FW of your own. Air NZ Fashion Week is just one. Make another one that can be a rival to ANZFW. Let sponsors choose which one they want to lay their money into.

5. I love you Isaac how you brought up this topic! go you!.

6. NZ has no future with Fashion week. But it doesn't hurt to talk about it. It may has a bad FW as a start but i am sure you guys will change and improve...

Anonymous said...

I laughed how there were not that many press/ international press coverage on Air New Zealand Fashion Week this year despite the fact how much money these poor designers poured their money into. shaking head..

The designers did this year's Fashion Week for hoping to get more press and they got nothing out of it except helping Stewert family's multi millionaire pocket. And what a family they are.. They said they have been using their money with no profit but do you know how many FWeekend tickets they sold!? and 3 million + sponsor money?
They should have a really good accountant as if they use tax payer's money from Auckland City Council.. I hope there isn't any Melissa Lee MP case here in NZ.

Anonymous said...

Ditto the comment about 'service' to the media. I wonder if there is a fashion writer in New Zealand who hasn't been on the end of an abusive phone call/email/confrontation with the FW brand manager.

Anonymous said...

Considering the rest of the world is doing Spring/Summer shows, I wonder if it's possible if NZ can too...

Katherine said...

I definitely agree with all points. NZFW is a joke. It's too much faffing about and way too much coverage of the organisers and their business interests. Very disappointing indeed. Fashion Week should be left to the professionals.

Midnight traveller said...

Essentially ANZFW is a tradeshow but would it really hurt to give the public a little more than a waterdowned version just to make them feel included?!

If I was a designer I would have a massive public Gorilla show smack bam in the middle of Aucland city lunch. Why buys these clothes in the end anyways, especially in teeny tiny New Zealand. We are tiny down here, if we want to really make it we need to think outside the box, not keep everything in the box.

Midnight traveller said...

Essentially ANZFW is a tradeshow but would it really hurt to give the public a little more than a waterdowned version just to make them feel included?!

If I was a designer I would have a massive public Gorilla show smack bam in the middle of Aucland city lunch. Why buys these clothes in the end anyways, especially in teeny tiny New Zealand. We are tiny down here, if we want to really make it we need to think outside the box, not keep everything in the box.

lovelylissy said...

the date..you couldn't be MORE RIGHT about the effing date..I mean....the amount of articles I've read that start with "whilst the top designers are blah blah in Milan things have been happening in New Zealand"...I feel bad for NZ and I love NZ so I don't want to feel bad for them haha

Anonymous said...

ANZFW has not enough designers to call themselves "FW"...

Serah said...

Mostly relevant comments, however I was disappointed that there was no live streaming of the event on the net. For a national event the coverage seems to be extremely poor.

paul said...

Just getting this back to business and away from the personal vitriol:
Dates: there are those who argue that being scheduled to be 'on the circuit' would guarantee ANZFW greater international coverage. There is a small opportunity for this, but even when ANZFW was timed to suit Northern Hemisphere media and buyers, (as it was for the first few years)very few came and very few orders were written. To get a clear space in the international schedule puts us at the very end of the calendar. This is problematic as international budgets will be already spent as would be Australian and New Zealand Winter budgets. I am one who in recent years (and also because of the recession) believes that we need to ensure that ANZFW is early enough to attract the Australian buyers who are most likely to be able to dramatically impact the businesses of New Zealand designers.
A fact that surprised me when working on London Fashion Week was that they also struggle to get buyers and media there (despite being right next door to Europe) as they choose to skip the weaker London week and go straight from New York to Paris (as it was scheduled then). In short - there is no guarantee that the media and buyers will come just by changing the schedule. Let's focus on the economics that will make ANZFW work regionally first and focus on the long distance opportunities second.
Paul

Anonymous said...

@Midnight Traveller - I'd love to see a public gorilla show too, but where are we gunna get enough gorilla's??

Anonymous said...

as a buyer who has not been to fashion week for the last 4 years I would love to see changes, I would love to feel as a buyer from a fashion store been going for over 20years with N.z labels and always looking for something new they would love to have me at nzfw,but no i am from the south island and a little to uncool for nzfw even though I have helped many young n.z designers over the years. seems to me you have to have a blog and be under 30 to go. Thank god designers still want their rangers in store and just ring me.Maybe we do not need a fashion week at all and just go back to buying and selling as we did before fashion week it did work.

Anonymous said...

we don't need a fashion week indeed! I totally agree with above - what is the point of having one if we are embarrassed. Keen NZ designers should go to Sydney to show their range with the same amount they pay. Sydney FW will be more exposure (internationally) and more accounts with aussie dollors.

Anonymous said...

I agree, that there should be discussion about this, thanks for bringing it up Isaac

**> The date I think we should have our week the week AFTER Australia, that way media and buyers who are down here already can jump the ditch and continue to NZ, and it will not clash with London NY.
If some designers go to Paris, then they would still be able to do that after their show!

**> Australian and top international models use their FW as a run up to NY, Paris FW, so we could do this also, which would benefit the standard in NZ

**> agree with the Scott Schumann Alexa Chung comments, also I would suggest Julia Frakes (Paper Magazine), Tavi, Jack and Jil etc

** I don't agree that we should stop commercial brands like carpenters daughter showing, media should be directed accordingly, Taranaki times can go to that show and Scott Schuman to Nom D etc

**> I agree that the public days are great ways to show the public the clothes, make money for the event, and give local models experience, these are a good idea and should be built upon

All in all, i believe that it is always easy to critcise without offering anything constructive. the event will continue to evolve with each years experience. FW has been great for the NZ Fashion, PR, Modelling and related industries, and has made a huge impact on the professionalism of the entire industry in the short time that it has been running, it took a lot to get it off the ground and get it going, so I believe credit where credit is due, to the Stewarts ,and constructive ideas for making the event even better and more useful to the industry it serves are the way to go!

Anonymous said...

here we go again. Saying the Taranaki Times go to one type of show and the bloggers go to another. that is what is wrong with nzfw.People all over N.Z wear NoM.D it is design in Dunedin were some of the best young designers have come from and who get so much support from all the local main stream stores. Come to I.D and see how good designer are down here .And all media is welcome newpaper, Mags bloggers the lot . So do not imply some show are more worthy than others and out of town N.Z media should only cover so called commercial rangers.

Anonymous said...

I am sorry but Dunedin ID is just a preview of collection which will be instore and a repeatition of what designers have shown in ANZFW.

Also, Dunedin only has Nom.d. Tanya Carlson is gone down and others are just too inexperienced to be called fashion designers.

ID was so terrible when i was down there...

Anonymous said...

What I was meaning was that whoever (media /buyers wise) is interested in whatever show can go to it, I didn't say Taranaki times shouldn't go to Nom D and carpenters daughter. If the bloggers were interested in TCD they could attend, but they don't need to be forced into sitting through a show that is clearly uninteresting to them!

Anonymous said...

Isaac i see that you don't let some comments on here... why don't you become more like Jack + Jill and let the post be what it is. You should announce that you no longer pick the comments to be up here. If you want your blog to be respected..

Melody @ Designer Direction said...

I truly believe that you have done a great thing by raising this issue on your blog. ANZFW affects an entire industry and ultimately FW has the power to impact positively on our economy, therefore it needs to be executed correctly.

Perhaps fashion week organisers might be open to a forum where media, industry people, designers, NZTE and buyers can get together and throw around ideas for improvements. Representatives can have their say, be heard and the information presented could be used accordingly.

Whether or not the powers that be would consider something of this nature? I don't know. But at least it would offer an opportuity for those relevant to the industry, to provide valuable input/feedback to help improve the event.

That's my 5c. Thanks to Isaac for opening the topic for everyone to talk about it.