Monday, December 14, 2009
Image /Tux Hika
If there was an award for New Zealand's most exciting up-and-coming menswear designer of 2009, the clear and unrivalled winner would be Glenn Yungnickel. With that in mind, let's create an award. I think it'll be called: New Zealand's most exciting up-and-coming menswear designer of 2009. And the winner is... (drum roll)... Glenn Yungnickel! (Rapturous applause.) First seen at Dunedin ID Fashion Week in March with a collection of voluminous shirts paired with Japanese worker blazers and jackets, he then went on to create an all-red Honours collection shown at the AUT Rookie show in October. And now he's been snapped up by Murray Crane to design the first ever Crane Brothers ready to wear collection.
Describe your role at Crane.
I will be developing the new ready to wear Crane Brothers collection under Murray Crane.
What is it like working for Murray Crane?
Considering he outed himself as being a tyrant of men’s fashion in New Zealand on his website when he advertised for a new employee, he's not actually as bad as he makes out. He does constantly bitch and moan and I must say he instilled the fear of god in me when I first started doing work experience a year and a half ago but I have always respected him for what he has built and for nurturing the growth of men's fashion within New Zealand. When I was given the opportunity to work part time and then given the Assistant Designer position I jumped at the opportunity to work with Murray. I look forward to working with him on this new venture and I hope I will gain valuable knowledge and experience from working under Murray.
What is your favourite piece of menswear to design?
A tailored jacket or blazer would have to be my favourite, to get a great fit takes a lot of work but once achieved there is so much satisfaction. Tailoring is such a huge area and within the last two years of study I have only really started to appreciate tailoring and the shape it gives to the body as well as the feeling of empowerment it gives to the wearer - but I must say I have a long way to go. It takes seven years to become a bespoke tailor so you can see I still do have a lot to learn. This is the area I feel most comfortable with and want to use these traditional tailoring techniques and use them to develop contemporary menswear. There is also something satisfying about designing and sewing a good quality shirt with all the subtle details from the flat felled seams to the sleeve plackets.
Who are your favourite designers?
I really like Yohji Yamamoto and Miharayasuhiro - both Japanese designers that have a sense of wear and tear within their designs. I also admire (Dior Homme Creative Director) Kris Van Assche.
How would you like to see guys dress?
Who am I kidding? To be dressed head to toe in Yungnickel of course. To suit their sense of style and personality. I would like to see more New Zealand guys moving away from this casual culture they have been brought up with - not to say that they should be wearing suits day in day out - but to mix the casual with the formal and to mix traditional with contemporary.
I LIKE YOU!