Monday, August 31, 2009
Image /NO Magazine
I obviously spoke too soon in my condemnation of model interviews - once I started reading Per Bojsen Moller's piece on Jethro Lazenby Cave in the latest issue of NO, I was hooked. It's not even so much the quotes (though some of them are very very good - I'll come to those later), but the article itself. Bojsen Moller, an ex-model himself, captures the spirit of the young son-of-a-rockstar in a way that I don't believe has been done yet. This isn't a light and fluffy puff piece - the likes of which would be found in plenty of other NZ and international fashion magazines - but a pithy profile that's well worth a read. Two reads even. Get this: "It is nearly 40 minutes past our arranged meeting time when Lazenby folds himself through the doors of the Dalston bar where I'm waiting. He is all pointy bones and a seething tide of unwashed hair that frames a face still clinging to boyhood, and judging by the odor emanating from the young model, I'd say it's been at least a couple of days since he last saw a shower."
Image /Metro Magazine
The good folks over at the newly relaunched Metro Magazine were kind enough to include me in their A-Z of Auckland Fashion section. Under I. The caption reads: "He's Auckland's shamelessly dedicated follower of fashion. Isaac Hindin Miller will go anywhere and try anything to get into the fashion week shows (preferably backstage) in Paris, Milan and Berlin, then post photos of his adventures on his blog www.isaaclikes.com. When not stalking the Kaiser (Karl Lagerfeld) or tracking the international careers of local models made good, Hindin Miller keeps busy photographing himself modelling new-season threads from the fanciest boutiques about town. Amazing how many doors the words "I have a blog" open these days."
The issue also includes Metro's annual Best Dressed List, featuring my good friend Ben Ford (in a bespoke Wunderkammer suit - see below). Thanks Metro Magazine!
Sunday, August 30, 2009
Emma Champtaloup - Image /62 Models via NO Magazine
According to a well placed source, Italian luxury house Prada is looking for staff right now for a possible 2010 Auckland store opening. Here's the Seek ad looking for staff. Amsterdam based denim company GStar is also searching for an Auckland location, and French tennis/preppy brand Lacoste is soon to open a flagship store in Auckland's Deloitte Building.
Scans /Russh Magazine via Emma from Ragpony (thanks!)
I have mixed feelings about interviews with models. They're not actors or politicians or musicians, they're people who were born looking a certain way. Yes they assist in selling billions of dollars worth of products and in the creation of art, but it's generally an aesthetic thing, and doesn't necessarily bear any relation to who they are as people. (Classic example - Clement Chabernaud said recently that if he wasn't a model he'd be a manual labourer.) That said, most models would have pretty interesting experiences - being flown around from country to country, working with top photographers etc, but still, I'm unsold.
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Image /DNA Models
Michael Whittaker's showcard for New York Fashion Week has just gone up on the DNA website. What can I say? The guy looks good. Now all he has to do is charm some casting agents and book himself some shows. Good luck son!
I LIKE YOU!
All Images /Fashion Gone Rogue
Two alternate Vogue Italia covers have just gone up, still derelicte, and both featuring boys. I think I like the Ash Stymest/Sasha Pivovarova one best. Oh and is that a boar's head I see in the cover above? Annah Stretton would be proud. Models include Jamie Bochert, Christian Brylle, Max Rogers, Anna Jagodzinska and Will Lewis. Photographed by Steven Meisel.
Friday, August 28, 2009
Cybele is in Tokyo right now (like right now as we speak) launching the above film - made for her new S/S 09/10 collection Serpentine - at American Rag Cie’s Aoyama Tokyo store. Inspired by a clip of Loie Fuller’s Danse Serpentine, found on YouTube, the film features Derya Parlak writhing in a smoke filled box. Says Cybele, "I love how the shapes and fabrics of the collection move and flow - like they do on the body when worn, it's always exciting to see the clothes in motion. Mediums outside of fashion (art, sculpture, design) are always a constant inspiration for my work.” Cybele joins a growing force of fashion designers (like Gareth Pugh, Stefano Pilati for YSL and Stolen Girlfriends Club) who have begun presenting their collections as films. No doubt it eliminates the stress of a full scale runway show. That said, Cybele will be showing once again at New Zealand Fashion Week this year - in the opening time slot.
I LIKE YOU!
Not only was Murray Crane on TVNZ's Breakfast yesterday morning talking about his controversial Help Wanted Ad, but he also got himself a spot on the TV One 6:00pm news last night. And it's made its way over to Australia too. This radio interview just went up on the ABC Brisbane website. Just goes to show a bit of controversy can equal a lot of press. How much further can this go?
Image /Fashion Gone Rogue
The latest Vogue Italia has just been released, with a very derelicte Sasha Pivovarova and Ash Stymest adorning the cover. It just so happens that a number of you have mentioned recently that you feel like Ash Stymest has been over-exposed as a model, so I thought this would make for an interesting topic of conversation. First of all, congratulations are in order to Stymest - it's not too often that a male model shows up on the cover of Vogue Italia. What a coup.
Thursday, August 27, 2009
All Images /The Fashionisto
Who says lookbooks should all be shot indoors against plain white backgrounds? Not I said the duck. I respect Band of Outsiders for doing things a bit differently. First of all, they don't even use models - usually just ultimate hipster actor Jason Schwartzman and Crazy Beautiful star Kirsten Dunst. Second, the clothes are geeky and preppy and remind me of what my Grandad wore in the 60s (he was a similar height to Jason Schwartzman too). Third, how cool is this entire lookbook shot on grainy polaroid film? I don't even care if it's cliche, I like it - it's like a little story of a day in the life of a funny weirdo. I've never actually tried on the clothes, so I do wonder if they're better suited to short guys (Shwartzman is only 5'6"), but I'll try to try some on next week when I'm in New York. I'm into it.
Murray Crane - the man behind Little Brother, Gubb and Mackie and Crane Brothers; maker of my upcoming maroon suit; and unabashedly fearsome employer was on TVNZ's Breakfast this morning talking with Paul Henry about the controversial Help Wanted advertisement he placed on his Crane Brothers blog three weeks ago. Paul Henry (being Paul Henry) took great pride in reading out the entire advert live on air, placing special emphasis on certain words - 'fabulous, mutter, bitching and moaning, shut up'. He then asked, "Murray are you an arse of an employer?"
All Images /The Fashionisto
These pictures from backstage at the Nice Collective show last season in New York just showed up on The Fashionisto. They reminded me that I should probably do a Michael Whittaker tribute post now that he's up and left the country. I received a call from Michael two days ago telling me he was leaving the next day for New York. He came and visited me that night then sure enough, he flew out yesterday. In his short international career, Michael has already shot some amazing editorial - Dazed and Confused, Kult, GQ, and walked for designers like Bottega Veneta, Moschino, Tim Hamilton and Duckie Brown. He'll have just arrived into New York right about now and should start casting for the next round of the New York shows in a day or two. I'd like to wish Michael the best of luck - go book those shows then hit the campaigns son!
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
New Zealand model, CURRENT face of Polo Ralph Lauren (and one time fixture on the models.com top 50 list) Nick Bryant has just shown up on the Polo Ralph Lauren website once again, advertising their latest sale. Thanks to an anonymous commenter, I've just found out that the above image is the new campaign shot for Polo Ralph Lauren F/W 09. Nick Bryant is back in the game! Wonder if he'll show up on the catwalk in New York?
I LIKE YOU!
All Images /The Fashionisto
Back in March I blogged about Balmain's first menswear collection and how much the Clement Chabernaud campaign reminded me of Tom Cruise in Top Gun (which I watched two weekends ago - still amazing). The full collection has just been shot in an Ash Stymest editorial for Japanese magazine HUgE. It's a very typical Stymest shoot - black and white, angsty, grungy, cigarette in hand, but I've gotta hand it to the guy, he can move in front of the camera. It's quite a small collection, but the whole thing looks to be a darker, more street/airforce (?) version of what Hedi Slimane was doing at Dior Homme back in 2006/2007. (I also thought the women's Balmain Fall 09/10 collection was inspired by Dior Homme.) Any thoughts? Rufus? John? Simon?
All the shots below.
Here's the full clip. I think the highlight quotes were pretty much covered in the preview clip I wrote about yesterday - the rest of the interview is spent with Letterman asking over and over again how people can be fashionable with little money. It gives Wintour a chance to plug her Fashion's Night Out event on 10 September, but the real moment of truth comes when Letterman asks how someone can be fashionable with $20. Wintour's answer - "They could buy a lipstick."
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Image /John in Charge
Well I'll be. I've just seen the first cover from NO Magazine's seventh issue and it's featuring none other than everybody's favourite bad-boy-model slash son-of-Nick, Jethro Cave. I've been a huge fan of Jethro's ever since that Comme Des Garcons show in Paris when he pulled up his sleeve to reveal 'RIP SMOOTH CRIMINAL' to commemorate Michael Jackson's passing. The guy's got balls of steel. Not a bad wee cover. Not bad at all.
Just saw over at Frockwriter that the Anna Wintour/David Letterman interview is playing on CBS in about 30 minutes. I love how bold his questions are. Can you imagine a fashion writer interviewing Anna Wintour and talking about things like this? Here are some of my favourite Letterman quotes from the short clip (which you can see here).
All Images /Supplied
There's nothing I love more than some ballsy expansion in the face of worldwide economic turmoil. So I take off my hat to Karen Walker, Stephen Marr and Dan Gosling for banding together to create something quite unconventionally traditional - a department store. It's the first one to be established here in Auckland for 100 years and I must say it all sounds very exciting. Besides some retail movers and shakers in Ponsonby and Newmarket, Auckland's been a bit dead of late - so thank the lord that a few people are making some moves!
All Images /The Fashionisto
It would seem that I'm not alone in the promulgation of uniform dressing (or beige pants). The latest issue of Details has this nine page Clement Chabernaud editorial based solely around the Pantone colour Camel. I can honestly say it's the best damn editorial I've seen in such a long time. I'm big on product rather than process - something that looks great rather than something that comes from an artistic place or a mood. Don't get me wrong, I love creativity, but I want to look at fashion that is aspirational and inspiring at the same time. This editorial is both for me - I want to wear every outfit. It's funny, I used to hate beige. It was my least favourite colour in clothing. Now I can't get enough of it. And I've always loved the idea of building an entire wardrobe around one colour. Uniform dressing people - need I say more?
I'm on George FM with Nick D at 8:40am New Zealand time this morning. 96.8 FM, or listen to it online here.
I LIKE YOU!
It's no secret I'm a fan of uniform dressing. In fact, the third post I wrote on Isaac Likes was all about dressing like a schoolboy. Michael Whittaker and I were at a bit of a loose end yesterday so we decided to pay a visit to the School Uniform Centre in Remuera. I figured at the very least I could find a few sweaters to add to my collection - but it never occurred to me that the whole ensemble could be so fresh. Once I got started I couldn't stop and before long I'd walked out with a Remuera Intermediate sweater, some grey school shorts and long grey socks. I've had some seriously mixed opinions on the purchase so far - once again from my flatmate Anna - I believe the word she used was 'freak', but what can I say? I'm a fan of the school uniform. To be honest I can't imagine I'll wear the entire thing together, but the sweater will be on high rotation, and the pleated shorts will come in handy in New York next week.
Monday, August 24, 2009
Image /Marissa Findlay
The official magazine of NZ Fashion Week (The Guide) has just come out, featuring a Michael Whittaker/Derya Parlak editorial shot by Marissa Findlay, styled by Chris Lorimer with makeup by Margo Regan. I'd heard there were a few sexy boy/girl photos in the mix but sadly none of them made it into the printed version. Big mistake! After begging and pleading with Marissa Findlay for the best part of three days, she finally sent me this shot. We already knew Michael could work this angle, but hats off to Derya for holding her own. Keep those kissing photos coming!
I LIKE YOU!
Like I said last week, my beige pants are back with Murray Crane at the moment - he's making me another couple of pairs with pleats added. I've been wearing these grey pants ever since. I bought them from Top Man in Dublin in January but never really wore them because they were a bit too full in the leg for my liking. I took them to the tailors two weeks ago and asked them to taper, crop and cuff them. They came back perfect. They're exactly the same as my Burnside High School uniform pants - now all I need is a white shirt, bottle green vee neck and Rugged Sharks (the socks were beige back then too). This was the closest I could get to my school uniform with the resources at hand.
I managed to get my hands on the Provisional NZ Fashion Week Schedule at the Fashion Week model casting on Saturday. It's a draft version only, but it'll still give us an idea of who's showing when - and where. There are some similarities to previous years - Cybele is opening the week, Huffer is closing, but also some differences - Zambesi is the final show on day one (they traditionally show on the night of the day three of day four), and Nom*D are showing on the morning of day two (first time they've done a morning show to my knowledge, they usually show on the evening of day one or two). There are six offsite shows, all from the usual protagonists - Zambesi, Nom*D, Kate Sylvester, Stolen Girlfriends Club, Karen Walker and Huffer.
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Image /The Fashionisto
This is Mark Cox. I met him in Milan. He's Dutch, about 21 years old, is agency mates with Michael Whittaker in New York, and besides being one hell of a nice guy, he's also about to be the next big thing in male modelling. He's just shot Pringle of Scotland, a Gucci eyewear campaign, and rumour has it he's the new face of Z Zegna. Expect to see a lot more from him soon - especially during New York Fashion Week.
I LIKE YOU!
Post all-nighter me with Lucas Ossendrijver and Alber Elbaz - Image /Steve Wood
It's never a sensible choice to stay out all night during fashion week. First there's the workload - for me it means waking up at 8:00am, getting to the first show by 9:00am, running around the city from one backstage to another front of house, often evading security and PRs, getting home around 10:00pm then writing the day's events for the blog. Exhaustion is already a given and an all-nighter never helps the situation. Second, there's the appearance. Staying out all night means turning up to the shows the next day in the same thing as the day before. Now that I think about it that one doesn't affect me so badly - after all I do generally wear the same thing everyday - but a shower is always a good idea. But most of all is the hysteria that sets in. I get a little crazed after no sleep. A bit delirious, a tad hysterical, a smidge manic. One moment I'll be almost crying over all the beauty in the world, the next I'll be this close to picking a fight with a security guard outside Dior Homme. I think it's fair to say I'm already a touch OTT at the best of times but it all gets slightly magnified on no sleep.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Friday, August 21, 2009
Image/ Purple Diary
I've just returned from the travel agent and there's no backing out now - I'm going to New York. On Wednesday the 2nd of September, 12 days from now, I'll be flying out from Auckland, via San Francisco and arriving at JFK at 12:45am on the third. I'm there for NY Fashion Week, which will include a show by New Zealand's Karen Walker, and I'll be covering it all in the same way that I did the European shows last month - by Twitpic, on Isaac Likes and on the NZ Herald website. On the 18th of September I fly back for NZ Fashion Week, then if budget permits (which I would assume it probably won't), I'll leave the day after NZ Fashion Week for Milan and then Paris. That's the dream, but unless some wealthy benefactor comes along and throws a whole pile of cash at me before then, it probably won't turn into a reality. Here's hoping! Oh, and does anybody have any suggestions for where I should stay?
I LIKE YOU!
The maroon cloth has arrived in at Crane Brothers...
I LIKE YOU!
Opening Ceremony have made this short film to coincide with the launch of their latest collaboration line with Chloe Sevigny. It's kooky and noisy and a little peculiar, and who knew Chloe Sevigny had such talent with scissors and glue?
I LIKE YOU!
Thursday, August 20, 2009
All Images /The Fashionisto
I'm fairly certain the good looking young guy in the photo above is Jasper Cooper (on the left). For those of you who don't know, Jasper is the son of designer Trelise Cooper and former fabric mogul Jack Cooper (Cooper Watkinson Textiles). He's also stupidly intelligent. When I was in third year at Auckland University I was in a Classics paper with Jasper. He was 17 at the time and in year 13 at Senior College - ie. still a high school student. The bastard came top of the class. After school he went to Melbourne to study law, where - by all reports - he topped the university, then onto the Sorbonne in Paris to study politics. In just under a year he mastered French, then decided to go to Berlin to further his education. He's been there about six months now and I've heard he speaks fluent German. Did I mention he's also a talented photographer? He regularly shoots for NZ-started international street style blog Turned Out. And he's the only New Zealander who made it onto the pages of Scott Schumann's book The Sartorialist. No doubt he'll be the first New Zealand leader of the EU within the next, I don't know, 12 months?
These shots are from Berlin based label A.D.Deertz. I'll be keeping a closer eye on Jasper from now on.
If you're only going to see one movie this year, make it Inglourious Basterds. I went along to the media pre-screening last night with a friend and we both just about spewed it was so good. You know how it is - there are good films, then there are good Quentin Tarantino films. And a good Quentin Tarantino film is probably the closest thing to absolute cinematic magic that I've ever come across.
Image /62 Models
Can you believe NZ Fashion Week is only a month away? Crazytown. The campaign imagery has just been released in Fashion Week's official magazine The Guide (put out by Remix Magazine), but hasn't yet graced the Fashion Week website. Shot by top NZ photographer Derek Henderson and styled by Chris Lorimer, the campaign stars Lily Montana (62 models) as a sexy pin up girl dressed in her real-life boyfriend Marc Moore's label Stolen Girlfriends Club.
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Fashion writer and fellow blogger Zoe Walker interviewed me for Viva last week about how I wear the same thing - or a variation of the same thing - every day of the week... Little Brother beige pants, beige socks, navy Chucks, sweaters and a Gap shirt. You might notice in the photo above that I'm wearing grey pants today. I started getting a little worried that my beige pants were going to die on me, so I took them back to Murray Crane and asked him to make me another couple of pairs. That way I might even be able to start washing them sometimes. If you look really closely you might also notice that the beige pants in the article's photo aren't actually my Little Brother pants. They're my massive pleated Ralph Lauren pants that approximately 52% of you hated and 48% of you liked. The day that photo was taken was the first time I ever wore them out in public (basically the one day of the year I was unfaithful to my uniform-dressing ways).
Zambesi were kind enough to send me a preview look at their Spring/Summer 2010 campaign with models Vinnie Woolston and Alina Levichkina. Shot inside a house (possibly the Findlay's family home), the black and white campaign is all about a mood of... sadness? loss? deep thought? summery brooding? Whatever it is, one thing's for sure - it's all about Vinnie Woolston. Woolston has been menswear designer Dayne Johnston's muse for years - this is his fifth campaign for the brand. It was also the last job Woolston shot before leaving to model in Europe fulltime in July. Maybe then the feeling of sadness in the campaign is literal - Zambesi mourning the loss of their most prolific campaign model and muse.
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
All Images /Men's Rag
I've said it from the start, I'm all for girls wearing boys' clothes. Chloe Sevigny has taken it to the next level with her Fall collection for Opening Ceremony - every outfit is exactly the same for the boys and for the girls. My favourites are the top two photos (above and below), I love the oversized coats, the pink shirts and the pants - especially on her... but especially on him. It reminds me of the matching outfits Jordan and I keep wearing at the moment. Nothing beats a uniform, people!
If you're going to make a film for your menswear collection that has nothing whatsoever to do with the clothes, this is how you do it. Directed by Samuel Benchetrit and starring his son Jules, the short film (made for Yves Saint Laurent's Spring 2010 menswear collection) basically shows a young boy going to a stranger's hotel room, making a few phone calls and attempting to reunite a broken hearted woman with her bon ami. Watch it, I think you'll like it. I do.
I LIKE YOU!
This photo of Michael Whittaker has just show up on men.style.com's seasonal trend report for Fall, entitled Protection Racket. The text alongside it reads: "A season ago, Tim Hamilton was showing looks that were downright boyish. His new direction? Militarily precise, from the spit-shined boots to the boot camp-issue buzz cut." I hate to be a hair-nerd, but I'm going to have to disagree with men.style.com on that last point.
Monday, August 17, 2009
I'll be on George (96.8 FM) with Nick D at 8:40am NZ Time tomorrow morning or you can listen to it here.
I LIKE YOU!
Image /Velvet Magazine
Zippora Seven, Stella Maxwell and Queeny Van Der Zande in another one from Velvet Magazine - this time fully clothed.
I LIKE YOU!
Ok so my internet is broken AGAIN which is making for some fairly difficult and infuriating attempts at blogging. Here's to a day of minutely short stories with few photo uploads. So. I first saw Robbie Wadge backstage at the Paris shows in January and I literally double took at how much he looked like a brown haired version of New Zealand male model Hal Cheshire. Who's with me... eh eh eh? Any takers? Robbie Wadge is doing incredibly well at the moment, shooting all sorts of stuff like Topman, Dazed and Confused and Vogue Hommes which makes me think that Hal should probably be overseas right now making more money and having more fun than the rest of us.
I LIKE YOU!
All Images /Velvet Magazine
Zippora Seven and Stella Maxwell have just shown up with fellow Viva Paris agency-mate Queeny Van Der Zande in this beautiful Velvet lingerie editorial shot by Marcus Ohlsson. The shoot has an old-world elegance - it's not about selling sex, it's about portraying grace and charm. It reminds me of a 1960s Italian movie, but with less pointy bra cups. I like the three girl formation - every shot has two facing forward, one with her back to the camera. It's very pretty. Zippora looks amazing, I think this might be the most beautiful I've ever seen her.
Sunday, August 16, 2009
I don't know what's happened but suddenly Isaac and I seem to be dressing the same. We met up for tea two weeks ago both wearing beige trench coats and then on Friday we were both wearing beige pants. Yikes, have I adopted his uniform? Anyway, I got these awesome beige pants from Country Road for a very reasonable price. They're a size too big but I kinda like them baggy and it doesn't matter too much because of the tie around the waist. They look great with a stripy top or a tight jumper and are just so easy to wear no matter what the season.
All Images /Jed Root
Just had these shots sent to me by my girl-in-the-field Lilly. 15 Faubourg is Lanvin's higher-end offering, sitting somewhere between bespoke and pret-a-porter. I can't imagine what the price point would be like, Lanvin pret-a-porter jackets start somewhere in the realm of 1500 Euro. Yowzers. One day my friends, one day.
Saturday, August 15, 2009
The $200 cut off on the +J collection I spoke of this week has just been reduced to $155. Amazing.
This from WWD:
JIL’S RETURN: Uniqlo and Jil Sander have finally set a date for the German designer’s long-awaited fashion comeback. The Japanese chain will start selling the +J collection in the United States and the United Kingdom on Oct. 1 and in Asia on Oct. 2. Prices range from 1,990 yen, or about $21 at current exchange, for a stretch t-shirt to 14,900 yen, or $155, for a Chesterfield coat. Photos of the products, including tailored shirts, button-down jackets and sweaters, leaked online earlier this week. But on Thursday, Uniqlo unveiled a couple shots from the line’s new advertising campaign, which will break August 24 in GQ Japan. Shot by David Sims, it features black and white images of windswept models Sean Opry and Isabeli Fontana.
I LIKE YOU!
Image /Men's Rag
John Smedley is like the grand daddy of knitwear. The company started in 1784 and it's still family owned and renowned for producing some of the best fine gauge knitwear in the world. This sweater is from their latest F/W collection, and it's pretty much the best one I've seen... in the last few weeks. Here's hoping it'll find it's way to our merry shores. I think it'd go quite nicely under that maroon suit.
I LIKE YOU!