Photos: Katherine Lowe
Rebellious tailoring was the inspiration behind Ennio Capasa's Costume National show today, in a collection that combined technically advanced fabrics with a dash of fragility. So what makes a menswear rebel? Eliminating shirts from one's wardrobe, according to Capasa. His substitute for the male staple came in the form of ultralight knitwear – striped and colour-blocked turtlenecks, v-necks and crewnecks in super-fine mohair and shetland wool.
These were worn beneath techno suits with hidden zip closures (removing the need for buttons), and super-reinforced leather jackets that wouldn't have looked out of place in a Michael Jackson video. Or on Blade Runner. Coats stole the show – my favourite was charcoal with blue and red checks. Made from heavy wools, each featured a contrast-colour-edging that gave them a perfectly unfinished, finished look. It was a clever detail; one that just about made up for that distinct lack of shirts.
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