Photos: Katherine Lowe
In the classic whodunnit scenario, a precisely selected group of individuals from vastly different backgrounds is thrown together in a pressure-cooker environment that gets really dicey when a crime is committed (usually murder). A typical story might include a wealthy city banker, a farmer, a playboy aristocrat, a conservative Scotsman, and, to keep everybody fed and watered, a butler. All of the above were present at Kenzo this morning, which opened, as any good murder mystery should, with a piercing scream.
"I was inspired by British eccentrics," said Kenzo designer Antonio Marras before the show. "Mixing them all together – Lords and countryside men, bankers and bad boys." The result was a jumble of styles, piled atop one another in an odd, but altogether convincing fashion.
A double breasted business suit below a bowler hat was normal enough, except that the trousers were covered by a full, pleated kilt. The butler's morning suit had raw edges and a red tartan vest. City suits came paired with countrified fair isle or argyle hand knitted vests; and mismatched cardigans clashed with lurid trousers in acid colours inspired by 1960s B Grade film posters.
The collection's highlight was classic Kenzo – a series of tartan suits faintly overprinted with floral motifs. As for whodunnit, one can only assume it was the butler. It's always the butler.
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