Wednesday, March 27, 2013

#2259 Good Question


Anon asks: Hey Isaac! Love your work. Not sure if this is within your area of expertise, but after becoming engaged a while back, I am now facing the dilemma of what to wear to my wedding. I recently ordered a single breasted, two button, made to measure suit from Working Style, mainly for work purposes. It's a beautiful suit, so could I also get away with wearing it to my wedding? If not, what other colours would you recommend? The wedding is in summer in New Zealand. Cheers for your help. Keep up the good work!

Yo! First things first, you didn't tell me what colour suit it is which makes it slightly difficult to answer your question, but I'll do my best. If it's a pinstripe suit of any description, I'd say it won't be appropriate for your wedding. If it's a solid colour suit, it could work. If it's black, I'd recommend saving it for funerals, if it's navy it might be great, but if it's straight charcoal then you're onto a winner. My best good friend wore a beautiful charcoal suit to his wedding with a crisp white shirt and ivory tie (to match his wife's dress, see above) and it was one of the best looking combos I've ever seen. A charcoal suit with a sharp point collar shirt, black knit or bow tie and black leather lace-ups would also look amazing. But if you wanted to jazz things up a bit considering it's summertime, try a cream coloured cotton suit with a white shirt, dark tie and brown lace-ups or double monks, or a seersucker suit with a pale blue shirt, dark blue tie and brown lace-ups. And let's not forget a classic black tuxedo with a white shirt, black bow tie, white pocket square and black lace-ups. You can't go wrong with the classics. Mazel tov to you and yours!

Erin asks: I'm a fashion merchandising student, and I'm confused about the validity of getting my degree and what the importance of it is in the fashion industry. I read and hear about a lot of people who never went to school for fashion or studied something like philosophy and then all of a sudden they found themselves with a hot job working under someone like Andre Leon Talley. What is your advice to someone who is staying up all night reading about the construction of sleeves and who is in class with a bunch of sorority girls and who doesn't see the significance? I honestly feel like the fashion industry is something that can be self-taught and is something to be experienced and is not something that a book can tell me about. But I would love to hear your point-of-view on how to get where you want to be in the fashion industry, even if it isn't by-the-book standards. You're the best. Love your blog.

Hey Erin! I have two thoughts about this: The first is that one of the most important aspects of getting a degree is sticking it out for the duration and proving to yourself, the world and future employers that you can go the distance. The second is that anything you need to know about fashion can be learned on the job, in magazines, by perusing retail stores, by interning, by reading blogs or by volunteering at your local fashion week. Sure you'll have a slight advantage over other job hopefuls if you know the difference between a set-in sleeve vs a raglan sleeve, but then again I know the difference because I'm a clothes geek, not because I studied it at university. I knew I wanted to work in fashion from the age of 16, but when it came time to go to university, I decided to do a traditional Bachelor of Arts in Film and Sociology because I figured I could work in fashion while studying and I'd be better rounded with an academic degree (plus I come from a family where my Mum's got a Ph.D, my sister has a Masters and my Dad's a writer and teacher, so traditional academics are valued pretty highly). So I called my favourite menswear designer (Murray Crane) about a billion times until he got sick of putting me off and hired me to work in his store. The only way to make it in fashion is to go out and chase whatever dream you've got. If you wanna be a photographer, try to intern with Steven Meisel. If you wanna be a stylist, beg Nicola Formichetti to be his seventh assistant/dog walker/coffee runner. If you wanna work in PR, hit up KCD or PR Consulting for a job directing foot traffic at New York or Paris Fashion Week. If you wanna be a model agent, call IMG once a week for however many weeks it takes for them to give you an opportunity. All I know is that if you start at the top, it's much easier to get a job lower down the food chain. People who make it in fashion aren't necessarily more talented, clever, thin or beautiful than the rest, they're more ambitious, they persevere against all odds, and they do not take no for an answer. My advice to you is finish your degree, but spend every waking hour you're not studying getting work experience with anybody who'll take you on. All you've gotta do is ask.


Anon asks: Guten tag, Isaac. Big fan in need of advice: Superga sneakers, dope or nope? Thank you.

Guten tag. I love me some Supergas, but I don't actually own a pair – my friend Jenny wears her black lowtops all the time and I can't get enough of them. I vote yes. Especially to the navy colourway.


Anon asks: Goth style: Yes/No/Never? Also, why the problem with the colour black?

What is goth style? You mean how Marilyn Manson used to dress? Or are you referring to Ann Demeulemeester/Rick Owens/Damir Doma and that kinda thing? I'm not anti anything in fashion – if you wanna wear it, go for your life. I'd be surprised if I ever own anything by Rick Owens because it's not for me, but my friend Rufus wears the brand all the time and looks fecking awesome. If it fits in with your aesthetic then Ann D, Rick and other brands of that ilk are all excellent options. My only beef with black is that I come from a country where it's the only colour that anybody seems to wear. Don't get me wrong, some people absolutely lord when they do the whole head to toe black thing, but I can't get down with it for myself.

Anon asks: Is second hand clothing really that bad?

No way. Second hand clothing is awesome. My Dad just bought the best Harris Tweed herringbone sportcoat for $8 online, it's about 25 years old and you'd think he'd had it tailored for him last week. I don't have the patience to trawl for dream pieces but if you do and you get lucky, I envy you.

Anon asks: My ex and I were besties and we started something. We proceeded to have this rather roller-coaster, often tumultuous, but equally fun 'thing' for a number of months. Eventually it ended. After taking some time out (not talking) we're trying to be friends and basically, I need tips. Sometimes I'm good with it, other times I cringe through it. Emotionally I still feel responsible in part for making sure he's okay but I don't think that concern is shared equally. Do I cut and run or is that the cheat's way?

I'm assuming you're a girl? In my experience, females feel emotional responsibility far more strongly than males. Us guys seem to find it pretty easy to move on (sexually, at least), or to act needy or selfishly and expect the world without much regard for their former girlfriends' feelings, or any inclination to provide reciprocal emotional support. I'd suggest you take it very slowly. Don't try to jump back into the best-friendship before either of you are 100% ready because it'll most likely end in tears, and don't go above and beyond for him if he doesn't or wouldn't for you. It's not fair. Cutting and running isn't the cheat's way, sometimes it's the genius' only option. Best of luck.


Anon asks: Do you know where I could find a good quality leather overnight bag for around $500 NZD? I saw the Filson duffel bags you posted about recently – if only they made them in all-over leather!

I honestly don't know where you can buy a good quality 100% leather duffel for $500 NZD. I do know you can buy this insanely beautiful Mulberry duffel from Mr Porter for $2100 USD, but that doesn't really help. Buy the Filson duffel! It's so cool and it has a lifetime guarantee! How can you go wrong!?

Anon asks: There's this guy I work with who I really really like. We went to the Warriors game a couple weeks ago and out on the town with some work friends and I ended up staying over at his place. Nothing much happened, a bit of kissing, you know, but that's about it. Then the next day after sobering up I went home. He didn't ask me out for brekkie or anything. Then the following Thursday we went out for dinner with a couple mates after work, I was driving past his place (he lives in the city and I live out west) so I dropped him off and he invited me up, which I wasn't expecting, so I went up. About 20 minutes later one of his mates texted to ask him to come out and so he did! I think he said something like, "Oh do you mind if I go see them." I was a bit put out but was not going to say something as what he chooses to do is up to him. But I was a little stunned. He texted me almost immediately after I left, saying, "Have I f*cked up by kicking you out to see my mate?" To which all I can think is he already knows the answer to that question. The next day we had pre-organised dinner plans, but after Thursday I had decided that I wasn't going to go. He was all sorry for possibly upsetting me the night before and said that we should go etc etc and silly me I did. And the evening was nice. He reckons he's just not good with girls but he invited me to his place so I went and we watched a movie then went to sleep. He didn't try it on or anything so he's not really sleazy, but kissed me and what-not. We hung out for a bit on Saturday then I just went home. I'm a bit confused. Is he just not that into me? Or is he just a complete dickhead? I'm not used to really liking a guy and this sort of thing happening. Usually a guy would ask me out and it goes from there.... If you get the chance I'd appreciate a guy's opinion.

Hey Sophie, this sounds like a bit of a dangerous situation to me. As far as I can tell, you've made yourself 100% available to him, and he's now in the extremely luxurious position of being able to pick and choose when and where and how he sees you according to his every whim and fancy. You need to back off and control yourself because you're basically telling him that he can act however he wants and you'll still be there to go for dinner or hang out at night or sleep over at his house or go to breakfast with him if he ever decides to invite you. People are only ever going to treat you as well as you expect to be treated, and it doesn't seem like you're expecting too much right now. Expect more!

I LIKE YOU!

4 comments:

GBannis said...

Isaac, since this column mentioned bags, and you've mentioned bags several times, I'd like to suggest you check out Basil Racuk, www.basilracuk.com.


I don't work for him or sell for him. I can't even afford him. But I think his bags are among the best made and designed around. He sews them himself with a collection of vintage leather sewing machines. I especially like his "Hard Brief," which uses no hardware and cups close.

Juliet said...

The person asking about leather bags - I reckon your best bet is to going straight to someone with a leather workshop, there is this guy in Devonport (I've only walked past but it looks pretty cool and apparently he does custom stuff) http://auckland.yellowlocal.co.nz/devonport/business/nks0/beeline-leather and there is also this place in St Kevins' Arcade - it mainly does motorcycle stuff but I know you can get custom things done there too (and they also do things like replace the linings of old leather jackets so are a good place to know about) http://www.msw.co.nz/index2.html

Paul M. said...

Isaac, great choice on the Mulberry duffle, so fresh. Have you checked out Frank Clegg? He's got a absolutely killer weekender called the Signature Travel Duffle (https://frankcleggleatherworks.com/index.php/product/view/Harness_Belting_Travel_Duffle).

It's just as nice as the Mulberry, except Frank makes all of his bags by hand, and it rings up for $885, which is definitely a little more approachable.

-Paul

Cameron said...

There is a place in Dressmart Onehunga called Fibre now that sells great quality leather bags, I have a duffel full leather bag and they sell for under $400. http://www.fibreltd.com.au/products/170-fbm005bro-carlo/categories:39-men-s (despite the aussie web address they are a kiwi company)