Showing posts with label Milan Fashion Week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Milan Fashion Week. Show all posts

Saturday, March 29, 2014

#2509 The Clashing Continues: Pitti Uomo, Milan, and Paris Have Aligned Menswear Show Schedules, Will London Play Ball?

Pitti Uomo Streetstyle. Photo: Tommy Ton

The biggest talking point of the last round of men's shows was the scheduling clashes between upstart fashion week London Collections: Men, and Pitti Uomo, the decades-old menswear tradeshow held in Florence in January and June. Pitti Uomo traditionally kicked off the men's show season, with editors and buyers arriving in Florence then travelling onto Milan and then Paris. But in January of this year, the British Fashion Council made the tough decision to hold the three-day-long London Collections: Men showcase one day before Pitti Uomo began, thus forcing a date clash which culminated in the Pitti organizers chartering a private plane to fly guests from London to Florence after the Burberry show had walked on the final day of LC: M. Nobody was pleased. At the time, much was made of the need for cooperation between the international shows, but a press release sent out this morning would suggest that communications between the camps have broken down.

Wednesday, January 15, 2014

#2460 Designer Sweats, Elaborate Sets, And KISS On The Catwalk — The Fashion Week That Was In Milan

KISS makeup backstage at John Varvatos. Photos: Sonny Vandevelde

Fashion week regulars have a love/hate relationship with celebrities, punctuated by a considerable amount of eye-rolling at the distracting — not to mention delaying — effect their presence has on shows, coupled with a tendency towards sneaky iPhone pics taken when their colleagues aren't looking. But even the most stoic of industry insiders couldn't help but be moved when American rock legends KISS took to the catwalk at the finale of the John Varvatos show on Saturday, the first day of the Milan menswear week. The sight of their signature make up (and Mr Simmons' extended tongue) had editors and buyers alike on their feet snapping photos with the ferocity of paparazzi in West Hollywood.

Sunday, January 12, 2014

#2458 Musings from a Kiwi misfit at the end of the first day of Milan Fashion Week

Me and Richard Haines in Italy. Photo: Melodie Jeng

Hello friends! Allow me a stream of consciousness for a moment. I started coming to the shows in 2009 when I was 24 years old. It was a pretty bold move for someone so young and inexperienced, but it was literally a situation where ignorance was bliss — I had no idea what I was getting myself into. I remember flying into Milan for the first time and knowing two people — both of whom were backstage photographers, so I'd hang out backstage assisting them as they worked, and then go out and watch the shows and look around hoping someone would come up and say hi (which, of course, they never did).

Friday, June 28, 2013

#2324 Milan Moda Uomo by Disposable Camera

Team GQ: Madeline Weeks, Jim Moore and Michael Hainey.

Camera number two has been developed, and it's filled with familiar faces from the week in Milan, like all your favourite New York editors, a certain set of identical twin designers, a movie star, some rowdy male models, a Canadian streetstyle photographer named Tommy, plus Richard Haines and Josh Peskowitz in their seats at Jil Sander. Check them all out, below!

#2323 Milan Menswear Madness – The Finale


We came, we saw, we conquered. Milano Moda Uomo has come to a close. So what did we learn?

1. It's a lot more fun if you've got a partner in crime. I did four or five seasons not knowing a single soul and it was a damn lonely experience. This time around, I had two constant companions: the illustrator Richard Haines, and the Australian male model Tom Bull, who drove the three of us around in a two-seater Smart Car (an experience that was just as uncomfortable as it sounds).

Thursday, June 27, 2013

#2321 Milan Menswear Madness, Day 3

Clockwise, from left: Lapo Elkann arriving at Gucci, Umit Benan, Ports 1961 and Canali.

After that late-night encounter with Michael Pitt at the Principe, I had celebrities on the mind. Lest ye forget, we're in Milano, so who better to kick off day three than the city's prodigal son, Lapo Elkann, whose made-to-measure collaboration with Gucci is set to launch this week. Elkann rolled up to the Gucci show in signature wide-lapeled fashion, and chatted the catwalk presentation away with Vogue Italia's editor-in-chief, Franca Sozzani. A few seats over sat a young multi-disciplinarian (actor/writer/director/face of Gucci) by the name of James Franco, who's in town to promote his latest collaboration with the house: a documentary film named The Director, which showcases 18 months in the life of Gucci creative director Frida Giannini. (Look out for it at a film festival near you.)

Wednesday, June 26, 2013

#2320 Milan Menswear Madness, Day 2

Clockwise, from left: Moncler Gamme Bleu, Calvin Klein, Missoni and Prada.

The Calvin Klein show was walking distance from my hotel on Sunday, so I walked. Which is fine in theory, but ridiculous when you factor in a sport coat and 80+ degree temperatures. Pain is beauty, I guess. On the plus side, they gave us bottles of Eternity cologne at the show; on the downside, they didn't give us water — so it was a thirsty 30 minutes at Calvin Klein.

Tuesday, June 25, 2013

#2319 The Richard Haines Q&A


Richard Haines is somewhat of a fashion-week anomaly—he’s a 61-year-old illustrator with a blog. In a past life, he was a womenswear designer for some of America’s biggest brands, such as Calvin Klein, Bill Blass, Perry Ellis, and Puff Daddy, but he threw all that in to focus on art in the digital age. He quickly gained traction, getting hired by everyone from J.Crew to The New York Times for his ability to make guys look far cooler on paper than they do in real life (you can only imagine what he does for models at runway shows). And recently, he received the ultimate validation: a gig illustrating Prada’s menswear collections, the fruits of which were released in book and T-shirt form. Below, the talent talks about flying on private jets with Calvin Klein, life as a blogger, and that one time three days ago when Beppe Modenese mistook him for Bill Cunningham.

#2318 Stefano Pilati's Zegna debut, Jil Sander's baggy shorts and Dolce and Gabbana's streakers

A look from the Jil Sander S/S 2014 show.

There are a couple of fashion week imperatives that I've learned over the years, and the first is quite simple - always double check the address of the show you're about to see. I forgot that one in my pre-show delirium on Saturday, and found myself standing outside Zegna HQ where the show is usually held, wondering where all the people were. I looked at my invitation and discovered that Stefano Pilati's first show for Ermenegildo Zegna was, in fact, on the other side of town. One 15 minute, panic-fueled taxi ride later and I sprinted to my seat just as the lights went down. Crisis averted.

Monday, June 24, 2013

#2317 Watch the Gucci show right here, mane!

Gucci S/S 14. Photo: Style.com

Check it out, after the jump!

Sunday, June 23, 2013

#2316 Watch the Calvin Klein show live!


Hey yo, I'm live streaming the Calvin Klein show today at 2:00pm Milan time/8:00am New York time/Midnight NZ time. Check it out above!!

I LIKE YOU!

Saturday, June 22, 2013

#2314 Let the Milanese games begin!


Ciao bellas! I've just landed in Milan. If I've said it once, I've said it a thousand times – nothing does it for me like arriving at my hotel and being greeted by handfuls of colourful envelopes bearing my name.  It's the best! For the first time ever, I've gotten all the biggies: Prada, Jil Sander, Gucci, Calvin Klein, the Zegnas, Versace et al, so looks like it's going to be a sneaking-in-free week for me. Maybe 29 years of age is too old to be doing that kinda thing anyway... Hard to say; we've still got Paris to contend against, so let's not shoot ourselves in the foot just yet. First show of the week is Ermenegildo Zegna, tomorrow morning. LET THE GAMES BEGIN!

I LIKE YOU!

Friday, June 7, 2013

#2303 Throwback Thursday – Prada S/S 2012

Photos: Sonny Vandevelde

Cast your mind back to that scene in Zoolander where Mugatu turns to his Derelicte show audience and delivers the unforgettable line: “I feel like I’m taking crazy pills!” So it was at Prada this afternoon, where the lady of the hour delivered a collection that was brilliant in its sheer excess – the freakier it got, the more the crowd lapped it up. Bear in mind that this is the woman who has managed to persuade fans the world over to wear bananas, monkeys, lurex and multi-clash-coloured platform-brogue-moccasin-creepers in the past two seasons alone. This time around, Miuccia Prada threw everything in the mix, including the dress-up box, Grandpa’s closet, the pro-shop and the kitchen sink.

Friday, May 24, 2013

#2295 My flights are booked for Pitti Uomo, Milan and Paris!

Me in Paris during the menswear shows, January 2011. Photo: Katherine Lowe
It's always been my opinion that the thing that set my blog apart from the masses was that I started going to the menswear shows very early on in my career at my own expense. My first season there, I was one of four bloggers on the ground – the others were Tommy Ton, Scott Schuman and Yvan Rodic (moral of that story: it pays to be a photographer). It was a no-brainer:  I'd just been fired from my magazine job, I was dying to travel and I'd spent the last five years imagining being in the room as Prada, Lanvin, Jil Sander and Dior walked. Rambunctious naiveté like that doesn't come along too many times in life, but when it does, you've gotta scream YOLO and run with it. So that's what I did.

Wednesday, June 27, 2012

#2207 The facts of life

My favourite piece of the menswear season to date, illustrated by Richard Haines for T.
1. On Sunday last week I was walking down the street when I saw my old mate Karen Inderbitzen Waller standing outside a pub. I ran over to her, screamed her name and twirled her round and round in a bear hug. When she told me to let her go in a very American accent, I realised my mistake, apologised about ten thousand times and put her down. Seven days later, my old mates Zara Mirkin and Zippora Seven had a house warming party at their new place. I walked in the door, and the real life Karen Inderbitzen Waller was sitting in their garden. It was like I willed her to be in New York and she appeared. Who says the power of positive thinking is all a myth?

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

#2206 Good Question

Aiden Andrews in Prada S/S 2013. Photo: The Fashionisto
Are you, like me, generally disappointed by Menswear S/S 2013 so far? I found Jil Sander's return very weak and the only shows I have enjoyed were Jonathan Saunders and Ermenegildo Zegna. Thoughts? 

I wouldn't say I'm disappointed with the season thus far, but my reaction to the shows has surprised me a little bit. It's all relative. Because I've been so focussed on wearable menswear (as opposed to high fashion menswear) for the past six months, anything that extends beyond the bounds of what the average well-dressed guy could conceivably throw on and pull off is suddenly ludicrous to me. So on the first day, I was looking at Burberry with its metallic shirting or Jil Sander with its sleeveless three quarter length coats and shaking my head. But the more I see, the easier it is to understand the direction things are heading. 

Thursday, January 26, 2012

#2102 My favourite streetstyle shots from the F/W 2012 menswear season

Tommy Ton for GQ

The past few days have been crazy. Besides a bunch of freelance assignments that were due, I've been looking for my first ever New York apartment. With a 22 year old Australian. On Craigslist. I enjoy lots of things, but shopping is not one of them. And there is no more extreme shopping experience in life than apartment hunting in New York City. It's you against the world. I had a couple of criteria: Live with one other person at the very most; pay a reasonable amount; never leave Manhattan. Here's what I got: A three/flexi-four bedroom loft that costs a lot of money in Brooklyn. And since we're both non-US citizens with no credit history or guarantors, they've asked for five months rent up front. And we said yes. Good times! In other news, I finally got round to looking at all of Tommy Ton's streetstyle shots of the menswear season just gone, and these are my favourites. Holla.

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

#1934 A conversation about the menswear collections, filing on-the-go and touch-typing with Tim Blanks of style.com

Tim Blanks – a vision in Prada bananas.

Way back when I was still at university – years before I started coming to the menswear shows – I discovered the (now defunct) site men.style.com. I became a fanatical devotee – it was there that I first read Tim Blanks' reviews and marvelled at the way in which a writer could sum up a collection so succinctly in just a few paragraphs of text. About two years later I found out he was a fellow New Zealander, and I'd pinpoint that as one of the inciting incidents in my decision to pursue this writing hobby of mine as a career. I'd like to say that I didn't get starstruck the first time I met him, but that would be a bold-faced lie (I've gotten only slightly cooler over the past three years). On the final day of Paris Fashion Week, I cornered the man between the Paul Smith and Thom Browne shows to ask him a few questions for Gilt Manual. Here's what they didn't publish.

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

#1932 And here's the full Boys of Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2012 video



As teased on Friday, here's Justin Wu's latest all singing, all dancing male model extravaganza video, to the tune of A Little Less Conversation by Elvis Presley. Particular moments of note include the 21 second single shot intro featuring eight different models in one model apartment; the Bruce Lee ninja spinning-kick dude at 50sec (guy's got mad skillz); Paolo Roldan's toprock at 54sec (b-boys can spot b-boys a mile away); every time Adrian Cardoso comes on camera; Thiago Santos' L-kick at 2:07; Anthon Wellsjo's over the shoulder "Satisfy Me" at 2:17; capoeira at 2:31; Aiden Andrews' ukelele cameo at 3:08; and the superman flying shot at 3:18. I had lunch with Justin Wu yesterday and he told me that he asked each model if they had any particular talents during the casting sessions. As evidenced above, these boys are not just pretty faces. Congratulations to Justin on a job well done – here's to many more where that came from.

I LIKE YOU!

Thursday, June 23, 2011

#1887 D&G went ripped, shredded and silky smooth

Photos: Sonny Vandevelde

Only one thing was more ripped than the denim at D&G today, and it was the boys on display. In their finale walk, all were topless and so extraordinarily pumped that it wasn’t a far stretch to imagine them doing a few quick sets of press-ups (or shots of ‘roids) before they exited backstage. Invitations came in the form of vintage print silk scarves like the ones designed by Hermes and Gucci that vintage hunters scour for at flea markets. Those scarf prints formed the basis for the entire collection – featuring on everything from a pair of shorts to a cropped blazer, a shirt to drop-crotch pants. Mixed with the aforementioned shredded denim jeans and shirts, the offering felt very Versace-of-the-90s – never so evident than in a silk bomber that will no doubt be a hipster staple come summer. With a banging soundtrack that included Prince and James Brown, D&G win the award for the most entertaining show of the week.